19th Century Lager |
styles - history - beers |
Introduction | ||
Whilst compiling a page on the breweries
of the Czech Republic, I realised that I had a problem with the section
on beer styles. What types of beer do they brew: Pils, Helles, Märzen? Do
they brew similar types of lager to those of Bavaria? The answers that I came up with weren't quite the ones I had expected. Not only are Czech lagers firmly rooted in the classic styles, they give a unique insight into the evolution of these beers through the 20th century. Not being the selfish type, I would like to share with you some of the information that I unearthed. I won't pretend that this stuff will be of much interest to the casual reader. But hopefully my fellow obsessives will find it informative. |
Index Lager styles around 1900 Austrian beer in the 1870's Austrian beer in the 1890's Lager strengths around 1910 German lagers in 1914 Lagers in the 1930's Modern lagers West German lagers DDR lagers Modern Lager Specifications Overview of lager styles |
Bottom-fermenting styles circa 1900 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Bottom-fermenting styles
circa 1900 There is a fascinating chapter in "American Handy Book of Brewing , Malting and Auxiliary Trades" (Wahl & Henius, Chicago 1902) on Thick Mash Beers in Germany and Austria (P.780-792). It's the best explanation I've read of early lager styles. It's pretty precise about the specifications of the beers, even down to the hopping rates. As the book is designed as a practical manual for brewers, it must bear at least some resemblance to reality. I'll paraphrase now what it says about the different types of continental lager beer:
Here are some Czech, Viennese and Bavarian beers analysed between 1860 and 1900 (Wahl & Henius, p. 823-830):
You'll note that the beers run like this in decreasing degree of attenuation (and increasing colour): Budweis, Pilsen, Vienna, Munich. A tantalising - because I only have an analysis of 1 Budweis beer - difference is shown between the Pilsen beers the drier one from Budweis. It's a distinction that is just as true today. |
Austrian beer in the 1890's | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Beer Gravity in Austria
in the 1890's. These fascinating fgures breaking down Austrian beer production by gravity, gives a fascinating insight into what was being drunk. Despite Vienna's fame for Märzen lagers, beers of their strength (13-14.5°), made up no more than 13.5% of the market. Much like the Czech Republic today, the most popular strength was 10°. The average gravity of 10.91° (approx. 1044° OG) is much lower than the UK figure - about 1056° - of the same period.
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Lagers at the start of the 20th century | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Lager
strengths around 1910 The 1911 Encyclopedia Brittanica also has some interesting analyses (performed by A. Doemens) of continental lagers, presumably carried out in the early 1900's:
German lagers in 1914 These are some analyses of German lagers published in 1914.
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Lagers in the 1930's | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
German
lagers in the 1930's. These are some analyses of lagers made in the 1930's. Unless otherwise stated, the beers are of German origin.
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Modern lagers | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
West
German lagers in the 1950's. By way of comparison, here are the specifications of West German bottom-fermenting cicrca 1955:
DDR lagers in the 1970's. By way of comparison, here are the specifications of DDR bottom-fermenting cicrca 1975:
Overview of lager styles You're probably wondering (if you haven't already packed up and gone home) why I have bothered you with all this historical gumph. Because without this knowledge, modern Czech beer styles won't make a great deal of sense. Unless - as may well be the case - you're brighter than me. How can I say this without seeming a total prat? Until a terrifyingly recent date, I had thought of Czech beer as without beer styles in the classic sense. They don't call their beers Pils or Münchner or Export; they just brew 11, 12, 13 and 14° Plato beer either pale, dark or amber. How wrong could I have been..... Stumbling across a pre-WW II Czech beer label prompted a rethink. A very simple label, printed in orangey-brown. In the centre "14%" and underneath "Märzen". Of course - Czech 14% amber beers were in the Märzen style! On closer inspection, 13% pale lagers are in the Spezial style; suddenly these Bohemian beers were fitting in very nicely with the lagers from Bavaria, Austria and Switzerland. It's like a physicist stumbling upon an unified field theory - suddenly the whole universe can be described in one sentence. Or perhaps a 19th century chemist filling in the grid of the periodic table. Which is exactly what I'll do now. The illuminating quality of Czech lagers is not a matter of chance. The survival of so many of the early lager types in Bohemia make it far easier to spot patterns. Here's my grid:
I won't insult your intelligence - you can see that far more of the Czech boxes are occupied. Vienna lagers aren't dead: they've just moved over the border. No country produces such a range of amber (polotmavé pivo) and dark lagers (tmavé pivo) as the Czech Republic. I can't quite understand why no-one has twigged this yet. This is an overview of the lagers brewed in the Czech Republic in 2006 by colour, style and degree Plato. Modern Lager Specifications Below is a randomish selection of breweries from lager's heartland and some of their products. The variation in strength and colour is wider than a visit to the supermarket might lead you to believe. Lager is very much the spotty git with bad teeth at the beer geek ball. No-one wants to hang out with it. That would look so uncool. Maybe it's time to look closer.
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© Ron Pattinson 2004-2010
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