Dusseldorf
Pub Guide
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pubs
- brewpubs
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Introduction | |
You only get one chance at a first impression. The circumstances
of my first encounter with Düsseldorf could not have been more favourable.
When I first stepped off the train in Hauptbahnof I was in the middle of
a particularly memorable long-distance, international pub-crawl. Those were
the days. Düsseldorf is, in many ways, an odd mixture. The capital of Germany's most industrialised state, in the heart of an area of steel and chemical works, yet home to a sizeable upper middle-class population. These can be seen in their designer suits and fur coats strolling along the Königsallee, the poshest shopping street in the whole of Germany. |
Index Düsseldorf Alt Sticke Düsseldorf Pubs Pub Listings Pub Map Düsseldorf breweries |
Physically, the maze of busy roads is counterbalanced
by the large pedestrianised Altstadt, which manages to be one of the country's liveliest
and most-used city centres. Here everything is on a human scale with shopping and
entertainment both well provided for. The Altstadt is jokingly known as Germany's longest bar and this isn't far short of the truth. There are an enormous number of pubs within its boundaries. For a night out, there are few places to rival it in the whole of Europe, if you're after decent beer. The locals certainly seem to have a good time. The jokey atmosphere in many pubs should help to dispel misconceptions about Germans' lack of humour and general dourness. The waiters are sometimes entertainment in themselves, with their cheeky comments (I wouldn't try asking for water in Zum Uerige). Dusseldorf's best pubs are amongst the best pubs in Germany. Happily, for anyone wanting to try out a few altbiers, the city has an enviable public transport system of trams (both on the surface and underground), as well as good train connections. So, no excuse for drinking and driving. |
Düsseldorf Alt |
Which is the best Alt? A question I always ask myself on visits to the city is "which is the best alt?". It speaks volumes about my innate indecisiveness that I am, to this day, unable to provide you with a definitive answer. One day, I'm convinced that Füchschen is top dog. Next visit, the Uerige beer is such a delight that I have to revise my opinion. On a particular day, Schlüssel will hit the spot so precisely that I can't imagine any other beer ever matching it. Other times, nothing can surpass a glass of Schumacher. Go there, try the beers and see if you can help me resolve this riddle. What is Alt? Düsseldorf is the centre of one of the most interesting beer regions of Germany, because here, more than anywhere else, the pre-19th Century top-fermenting tradition has been kept alive. In contrast to Cologne, where Kölsch has, to some extent, mimicked the paleness and softness of pils, altbier has retained much of its individuality in terms of colour and flavour. Pretty well every pub in the city sells alt and even the most commercial versions could never be mistaken for a conventional lager. The altbiers of Düsseldorf are the classic examples of the style: copper in colour, dry and with a long hoppy finish. Complex, yet drinkable beers, Düsseldorf alts (I mean here those from the brewpubs) are as superior to caramel-coloured industrial alts as cask-conditioned beer is to keg. All four brewpubs sell bottles to take away (some litres some half litres), but the only way to taste alt is on draught, straight from a wooden barrel. How is Alt brewed? Superficially, in colour and flavour, alt has much in common with the pale ales of Britain or Belgium. However, the method of brewing alt, which includes an initial fast, warm top-fermentation followed by a long of period lagering at a low temperature, is in fact a hybrid. (You can see on some of the labels the confusing term 'top-fermented lager beer' - a statement which appears to be a contradiction in terms.) The result is a beer which combines some of the roundness of a bottom-fermenting beer with the more complex fruity flavours of an ale. There can be no doubt that the style has developed over the years, undergoing the type of industrialisation which occurred in London, Burton, Munich and Pilsen. The pre-industrial beers were probably darker, cloudy and with perhaps a touch of smokiness (I'm not 100% sure about this one - it depends on exactly how they kilned the malt), imparted by older methods of malt production. After coming under considerable pressure from bottom-fermented beers in the first half of this century, the style has hung on in well in some parts of the Rhineland. Yet despite its continued popularity in some strongholds, the market share of alt is still declining, dropping from from 3.6% to 2.9% between 1992 and 2002. In the context of a beer market which is generally in decline, the percentage drop in altbier volumes is even greater. |
Düsseldorf Breweries Düsseldorf is lucky enough to still retain four long-established pub breweries, which produce almost exclusively altbier. In addition there are a couple of large commercial breweries in the city and more in the area around. For more details about these, go to my Düsseldorf brewery page. |
Take
a copywith you You can purchase a printed copy or pdf file of this guide (which includes pub guides to other towns in the vicinity) here: Trips! (West) |
Map Index | ||
Dusseldorf Pub Guide |
Pub Listings |
Pilsner Urquell | |
Marktstraße 12-14, Düsseldorf. Tel. 0211 - 3004 5850 http://brauereiausschank-pilsnerurquell.de/ |
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Opening hours: Sun - Thur: 11:00-24:00 Fri - Sat 11:00-01:00 |
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Number of draught beers: 1 | |
Number of bottled beers: | |
Regular draught beers: | |
Food: Snacks, meals. | |
I've not had chance to visit the resurrected Pilsner Urquell, a Czech pub that used to be a few streets away. It was a sad day when it closed. It meant I couldn't get my fix of dumplings and Czech beer when in town. Hopefully the new incarnation won't disappoint. |
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Rating: | Public transport: |
Zum Uerige | |
Bergerstraße 1, 40213 Düsseldorf. Tel. 0211 - 866 990 Fax 0211 - 132 886 Email: info@uerige.de http://www.uerige.de/ |
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Opening hours: Mon - Sun: 10:00-24:00 | |
Number of draught beers: 2 | |
Number of bottled beers: 1 | |
Regular draught beers: | |
Food: Snacks €2-5, meals €14. Beer €1.80 for 0.25 l. | |
This
rambling and justly famous brewpub is located on the corner of a busy shopping
street in the Altstadt. To the right of the entrance is an L-shaped taproom with beautiful stained glass windows depicting old Düsseldorf scenes and carved wooden panels with similar motifs. The walls are stained in various interesting shades of brown, presumably by a combination of beer and nicotine. Here you can watch the barrels come up by lift from the cellar, be tapped, very quickly emptied and then removed again. A heart-warming sight. The ceiling above the area for the barrels has an intriguing set of stains which must have been occurred when overactive casks were tapped. There is another small room to the left of the main entrance and a more cavernous drinking area to the rear. By the entrance is the usual take away section, where bottles and barrels are on sale. The outside seating seems to be gradually taking up the whole of the street running down the side of the pub. Immediately outside are the usual standup tables - handy for a quick bit of refreshment while shopping. Across the street are beer garden style tables and benches, offering the sheer luxury of sitting under the trees with a glass of alt. The waiters are remarkably cheeky and give anyone asking for something other than beer a very hard time. ('Water? That's in the Rhine.') If you don't want them relentlessly taking the mickey out of you, stick to beer. All ages, sexes and classes come here, many stopping off during shopping. A classic which is undoubtedly one of the very best pubs in the whole of Germany. The only negative feature is that you have to pay for the toilets. The Weizen is a bit of add oddity and Zum Uerige, despite its tiny size is one of the few north German breweries to produce a wheat beer. Given the waiters' reluctance to serve any liquid other than alt, it's amazing that it can survive. Fans of "Auf Wiedersehen, Pet" might be interested to learn that one scene in the first series was shot in the back bar of Zum Uerige. |
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Rating: ***** | Public transport: |
Brauerei Zum Schlüssel | |
Bolkerstraße 43-47, 40213 Düsseldorf. Tel. 0211 - 828 9550 Fax: 0211 - 135 159 Email: info@zumschluessel.de http://www.zum-schluessel.de/ |
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Opening hours: Mon - Sun 10:00-24:00 | |
Number of draught beers: 1 | |
Number of bottled beers: 1 | |
Regular draught beers: | |
Food: Snacks €3-10, meals €7-14. Beer €1.80 for 0.25 l. | |
The relatively narrow frontage of this building disguises
the size of this pub, which rambles backwards through a variety of rooms
to the brewery at the rear. The main bar is placed centrally at the front
and has a standing taproom to one side of it. If you're after a pubby atmosphere,
it's best not to venture any further than this. The rear sections are more
restauranty, but eating is not compulsory. The brewery itself can be observed through a glass wall. It has the usual collection of shiny copper equipment which so impresses us beer obsessives. There are a few standup tables outside on the pavement, when the weather permits. Like most of the buildings in the street, the original pub was destroyed in the war. It's been done in a fairly sympathetic style, like much of central Düsseldorf, which is one of the reasons I like the city so much. However, the interior must have been refurbished since reconstruction in the 1950's: It all looks a bit too new inside: so much pine can be glaring on the eye before a few decades of wear have toned the colour down a shade or three. It can be a bit of a disappointment after visiting the better and more traditional brewpubs, but it does grow on you. The food is excellent in an extremely German way - uncomplicated and in large portions. The menu usually includes a couple of items prepared using their own alt. Unlike the other brewpubs, most of the service is performed by waitresses rather than waiters. I've always appreciated their motherly good humour and great tolerance of our kids. The beer isn't bad, either, coming, as usual, directly from oak casks on the bar. |
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Rating: **** | Public transport: |
Schumacher im Goldenen Kessel | |
Bolkerstraße 44, 40213 Düsseldorf. Tel. 0211-326007 |
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Opening hours: Mon - Sun: 10:00-24:00 | |
Number of draught beers: 2 | |
Number of bottled beers: 1 | |
Regular draught beers: | |
Food: Snacks €4-8, meals €7-14. Beer €1.70 for 0.25 l. | |
This
is Schumacher's second outlet in the city centre, very much in the style
of the pub-breweries, though not brewing itself. It's been owned by the
Schumacher family since 1902. Like Schlüssel across the road, it was bombed out during the war and reconstructed in the 1950's. The three houses of which it previously consisted were rebuilt as a single structure. In the right hand bar, there are framed newspaper cuttings telling the story of destruction and rebirth, with poignant photos of pre-war Bolkerstraße. Both outside and inside, it's very similar in style to its neighbour, though on a smaller scale. Here the size of the frontage is not deceptive. to the left of the entrance a standup taproom, to the right and rear restaurant-like rooms. As you can see from the photo to the left, the oak barrels sit on a magnificent copper bar counter. The interior still has a slightly new feel, with the pine fittings not having had time to develop the friendlier dark colouring that comes with age. The beer is served from the wood, just as in the brewery, and tastes equally as good, even if the atmosphere is not quite up to the same standard. Though it is handily placed bang in the pedestrianised part of the Altstadt. Traditional meals. |
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Rating: *** | Public transport: |
Kreuzherreneck | |
Altestadt 14, Düsseldorf. Tel. 0211--131511 http://www.kreuzherreneck.de/ |
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Opening hours: Sun - Thu: 17:00-01:00 Fri - Sat 17:00-05:00 |
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Number of draught beers: 2 | |
Number of bottled beers: 2 | |
Regular draught beers: | |
Food: none. Beer €1.60 for 0.25 l. | |
Altestadt is a street full of boozers and one of them is this tiny corner pub.
There are only 2 tables and a couple of bar stools for seating, yet somehow they
manage to have live music here. Maybe the band take up position in the toilets. It's fitted out in a simple, but tasteful manner with wooden fittings and a tile floor. The windows are unusual: the bottom third of each is etched with the name of a spirit, the middle third with the name of a country and the top with various coloured culinary symbols, such as corkscrews, beer taps, etc. I've no idea what the meaning of it is, but it's attractive enough. It reminds me of the sort of decoration you would see in Interhotel bars or HO restaurants built in the 1960's (if anyone can remember such things now). |
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Rating: *** | Public transport: |
Brauerei im Füchschen | |
Ratingerstraße 28, Düsseldorf. Tel. 0211-84062 http://www.fuechschen.de |
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Opening hours: Mon - Sun: 09:00-24:00 Fri - Sat 11:00-03:00 |
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Number of draught beers: 1 | |
Number of bottled beers: 1 | |
Regular draught beers:
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Food: Snacks €3-9, meals €6.50-12. Beer €1.80 for 0.25 l. | |
A wonderful, friendly old pub-brewery with an impressive wooden interior. By the
entrance is a small taproom with seats grouped around barrel tables. The pub then
meanders back towards the brewery itself through a series of rooms with large wooden
tables. The atmosphere is very relaxed and open, with chance neighbours at a table
soon striking up conversations. The customers are a great mixture of young and old
from all social levels. The beer, in keeping with the general level of tradition and excellence, is one of the best Düsseldorf altbiers. The food is good, good value, local, but not very suited to vegetarians. It sells bottles and barrels to take away and if you sit close to the door you can see a happy procession of customers wheeling barrels out to their waiting cars. If only you could do this in every city. The inhabitants of Düsseldorf don't know how lucky they are. At the rear is a courtyard where you can sit outside in the Summer. Behind this is a diminutive brewery, quietly producing the liquid delight for the pub in front of it. |
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Rating: ***** | Public transport: |
Brauerei Schumacher | |
Oststraße 123, 0210 Düsseldorf. Tel. 0211-326004 |
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Opening hours: Mon - Sun: 10:00-24:00 | |
Number of draught beers: 2 | |
Number of bottled beers: 1 | |
Regular draught beers:
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Food: Snacks €4-8, meals €7-14. Beer €1.70 for 0.25 l. | |
Schumacher is the only one of Düsseldorf's brewpubs
which isn't in the Altstadt. That said, it isn't exactly out in the sticks,
being between the main station and the town centre proper. Behind the imposing
stone facade is a huge pub-brewery with a selection of large rooms laid
out with big pine tables. By the entrance is a smaller and more basic taproom,
designed for standing drinking. Also at the front of the building is a takeaway
section where bottles and small barrels can be bought. At the rear is a
small courtyard drinking area, bounded on its opposite side by the miniature
tower brewery. The main rooms are decorated with a series of oil paintings depicting scenes from the history of the city. A particularly charming example is of Russian soldiers marching down Ratingerstraße (which, oddly, is the location of one of the other pub breweries, Füchschen) in 1814. The draught beer is served directly from oak casks and is of consistently excellent quality. Traditional Rhineland food is served in typically German-sized (large) portions. |
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Rating: **** | Public transport: |
Paulaner am Komödchen | |
Mutter Ey Strasse 1, 40213 Düsseldorf. Tel: 0211 301 807 80 http://www.paulaner-duesseldorf.de |
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Opening hours: Mon - Sun 11:00-01:00 | |
Number of draught beers: 4 | |
Number of bottled beers: 4 | |
Regular draught beers: | |
Food: Snacks 4 - 12, meals 8-15. | |
Something that sets Paulaner apart from the majority of German breweries is its
estate of pubs spread across the country. Before the war, it was usual for the Munich
breweries to have a "Brauereiausschank" in most of the large German cities.
For some reason, all except Paulaner have given up on the idea. A shame, and a missed
opportunity, as such pubs offer the beer lover a chance to sample Bavarian beer
without a journey to the deep South. Paulaner's Düsseldorf showcase is a smallish corner pub not far from the new Kürzer Brauaerei in the Altstadt. Being so closely associated with the brewery, it naturally serves both beer and food of a very high standard. It has The Bavarian food is authentic and very good value (any true carnivore should try the sausage plate). The beer is, of course, excellent, but be careful of ordering a dark beer (Dunkles) as they tend to bring a half litre of Salvator Doppelbock. Rather annoyingly, the smoking section is at the front. You ihave to walk through it to get to clean air. And the food was a bit dodgy. I got what Lexie calls "Monday potatoes": boiled spuds that have been cooked the day before and reheated. |
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Rating: ** | Public transport: |
Frankenheim Brauereiausschank | |
Wielandstraße 14-16, Düsseldorf. Tel. 0211-351447 |
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Opening hours: Mon - Sun: 10:30-24:00 | |
Number of draught beers: 2 | |
Number of bottled beers: ? | |
Regular draught beers: | |
Food: Snacks, meals. | |
Brewery tap of the Frankenheim brewery. Unusually for such places it
employs waitresses instead of the usual blue-clad waiter. In other breaks with tradition,
they have draught pils and even offer vegetarian meals. What is the world coming to.
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Rating: | Public transport: |
Schalander | |
Kölner Landstr. 247, 40591 Düsseldorf. Tel.: 0211-7597057 Fax: 0211-987333 http://www.schalander.de/ |
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Opening hours: Sun - Thur 17:00 - 01:00, Fri - Sat 17:00 - 02:00 |
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Number of draught beers: 13 | |
Number of bottled beers: 4 | |
Regular draught beers:
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Food: Snacks €3-9, meals €8-14. Beer €2.40 for 0.4l, €3.20 for 0.5l. | |
A long thin pub that's deceptively large inside. You could
describe it as a modern take on the Brauhaus style. It still has the brushed
pine tables, but a conservatory-like glass wall means a much brighter interior.
What makes Schalander really stand out is its beer selection. I can think of no other pub that has three home-brewed Alts on draught. They demonstrate their open-mindedness by even having a Kölsch on tap. So if you're short on time, you do the whole of Rhineland beer culture in this one pub. The only downside is the location, about four kilometers southwest of the Altstadt. |
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Rating: | Public transport: U-Bahn U74 or U77 to the stop Ickeswarder Strasse. |
Brauerei Kürzer | |
Kurze Strasse 18-20 40213 Düsseldorf Tel: 0211 32 26 96 Fax: 0211 32 26 97 http://www.brauerei-kuerzer.de/ Email: info@brauerei-kuerzer.de |
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Opening hours: | |
Number of draught beers: 1 | |
Number of bottled beers: | |
Regular draught beers: | |
Food: Snacks €, meals €. Beer € for 0.5l. | |
The city's latest Alt brewery. It's just openend so I have few details yet. Ben Powell reports: "The interior is what I guess one would describe as “Industrial-Chic”, with bare bricks & Steel Service Pipes & Ductings featuring. The staff were in keeping with this casual (cool) approach, with “shabby chic” attire & tattoos.. This seemed to attract a mainly younger crowd (except for ourselves), and the place was nicely busy, with all tables full. It is significantly smaller in scale than the established traditional Alt Taverns nearby, and maybe aims itself as a kind of hybrid of these Taverns, and the more new-world “Craft” Beer Pubs (?) The modern brewing equipment is at the back of the Pub, fairly open plan (not behind any glass or doors), and the Alt Beer dispensed from an unusual glass contraption, situated on the Bar.. Another quirky feature was that The Bar area was built on top of Kurzer Beer Crates.. The Tubes of Alt were slightly shorter & stubbier than those elsewhere; and were carried in a long wooden rack, which was mainly for effect, as this is clearly not very practical in a busy pub, full of increasingly tipsy patrons! The Alt Bier itself was relatively dark, with a quite pokey hoppy finish..very tasty, but again aiming to be a bit more modern than the more established Alts..in fairness, it must be a bit intimidating to open a new Alt Brewery in an area that contains such excellent Taverns..you can see they have tried to bring their own feel into what they brew & how they present it..." |
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Rating: | Public transport: |
© Ron Pattinson 1997 - 2012
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